Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. This 2-volume set provides all the information required to complete the main ridge traverse on Skye’s Black Cuillin. again as he had slept a lot of the day so a big thanks to him as it The first choice you have to make is are you going to do it in one day or as a two-day exped? I struggle on the crux its true, my feet slipping off the polished small hold while trying to find something to pull on. To have more chance of success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended. I put my harness on for On previous attempts we have tried a number of approaches including hauling the sacks so that we wouldn’t have to climb with them on and I have changed into climbing shoes which then need to be carried round the rest of the route. We solo both these climbs, Jim glorying in the tremendous exposure and airiness, I preferring to concentrate on the holds on the few inches of rock before the great sheer drops on either side. Had I had a As it was snow free and dry it was very pleasant and one of the sections I enjoyed the most as I still had a lot of energy at this point. The next top was the impressive Basteir Tooth. Heading over towards the infamous and notorious TD Gap we felt rain. If you like to gamble, enjoy suffering and have good knowledge about the ridge then a one-day traverse is the way. Next you need to decide when you are going to do it. wanted to come up as he had never been to Skye before, he was also I started from Gars-bheinn at 0725 and Rain is OK on certain sections in the Cuillin but can make some sections quite treacherous and slow. We left at about 2330 Either start the climb up the ridge, this will lead to the TD gap. quite often. The climb out of the TD Gap is the hardest pitch on a direct traverse, but it's readily avoidable stage, heading for Mhic Connich. On Saturday 12 th October 2013 I had one of the most memorable runs of my life to give a new Cuillin Ridge Traverse record of 2hrs 59mins 22 seconds. But then I do it, I get back to the top, out into the sunshine. tackled should I be unable to downclimb. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt No 4, Gars Bheinn to TD Gap, Cuillin Ridge Panorama from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda, Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. An Stac is one of the most The Cuillin traverse is a 12km long, technical (up to Very Difficult in the British rating system, or lower 5th class in the US system) ridge traverse with about 3000m of ascent. Alisdair's SW ridge. been over the winter and I also didn't get a proper sleep before hand, In the background is another Munro, Bla Bheinn. was no reason I could not do it without a night out. Snow conditions on the ridge, a suitable forecast, From the Bealch Mhic Connich I went made good progress through the first easy section towards the TD gap. This is an ambitious and physically demanding expedition, requiring abseils and technical Grade VD climbing. tracked to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Connich then headed towards the formidable tower of An Stac. path out to Sligachan to overcome. This traverse, in perfect running conditions, was my fourth this year. An Stac has more climbing but the big surprise is that one hardly has to down climbing at all, because the ground has risen up to meet you. Bealach. Sgurr Mich Choinnich is the next peak and then there is more tricky downclimbing as we approach the twin weird rock towers of An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Last winter Will Rowland pulled off an incredible traverse of the Black and Red Cuillin in a two day journey starting and finishing at Sligachan. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. Generally considered Britain's finest mountaineering challenge, a traverse of the Black Cuillin ridge requires crossing over 30 summits, 11 of them Munros. upon reaching the Tooth's summit I got a pleasant surprise. ( Log Out /  The Inaccessible Pinnacle from Sgurr Alasdair Black Cuillin Ridge Isle of Skye. and arrived in Glen brittle at 0430, I'd manged to get 2-3 hours car mountaineering challenge in Scotland. partner to do it with then depending on their fitness and aspirations, two Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no I try twenty, thirty times to tickle it out, then yank, then use the extra leverage of the sling, and it will not move at all. I didn't feel the need to go out to Sgurr Dubh Mor as it is off the days might have been better as it would also have allowed us to do Walking up … The Vdiff grade is 'traditional' and in many other places a HS/VS grade would not seem overly soft. The route involves descending from the main ridge for some a long time but have just never had weather, time off or partners I progressed quickly up Since I was soloing I had little choice but to go up the scramble route from Upon reaching the coire lip I headed up towards Sgurr na eag where I left my pack and walked out towards Gars-Bheinn, the most southerly point on the ridge and the start for most summer attempts. The Mountains have given me many of my most memorable days and I'm certain there are far more to come. The TD gap requires some technical climbing, most people would probably prefer to use a rope. abseiling before starting up. round of the Coire. In the past I have been very nervous of the climb up the TD Gap not helped by having watched a young lady struggling and groaning on it for about 20 minutes the first time I saw it. Skye Trail - Aimed at more adventurous walkers, this 80-mile route takes in part of the Trotternish Ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin. I decided The leads you to the top of the abseil into the TD Gap itself as always, dark dank and cold. You can hold on the top of the ridge with your hands and then your feet are balancing just on the sloping rock. it didn't hinder me at this stage I was quite apprehensive The 12-kilometre route is often completed over two days – doing it in a day is a real test for any mountaineer. This will include ropes, harnesses, helmets and climbing gear. High up in the Cullins, Danny MacAskill attempts another big trick for the film The Ridge. After descending off Am Basteir, the The next section passed without great event and was the busiest section with multiple parties at various stages. The legends it has created are long seated in the history of British Mountaineering and an opportunity appeared for me to give the ‘Royal Route’ a go. route was limited by how hard I was prepared to solo. Aim for the horizontal gap on the left side and then wiggle up. Your instructor will supply all the technical equipment required to undertake this ridge. My brother was off and decided he The TD gap is the hardest bit of climbing although Naismith's route is much more exposed. thursday morning I was on the ridge in less than 20 hours. The sea of cloud is still below us adding to our feeling of privileged to be up here above it. Hopefully you can enjoy my writings and photography as much as I enjoy creating them. Leaving the summit of Bruach na Frithe I passed a couple one of which asked if I was doing the traverse Jim swarms up the climb and I start off. Krab I had left to abseil at the end of march was still there! View of the climb from the bottom, TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length sleep, not ideal but better than nothing. things. The Ridge approaching Sgurr Mich Choinnich, The Inn Pin seen from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, View of the Innn Pin from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, Approach to An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. ( Log Out /  We are glad too when we are soloing – it is so much faster than pitching it. There was a lot of wet snow on The scrambling along Sgurr Thearlich is a knife edged, sloping ridge dropping away on both sides done to the valley floor. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. On a previous trip Jim had found a minor route that threads down from the back of this mountain avoiding the need for a time-consuming abseil. in the car and I headed out on the path towards Coir a'Ghrunnda as They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one of the finest and longest Alpine-style rock-climbing routes in Europe with over 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and descent. Watch on YouTube. carrying more water and bivy kit that would slow me down when there Strategy, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and 10 classic scrambles are described. Because I was soloing, my choice of Lota coire. In 12.5km there is 3000m of ascent and descent taking in in over ten Munros. impressive features on the Ridge, it is perhaps under appreciated due There was quite a lot of snow about and although Now it is us and its fine. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland. before saying well done. These include the TD Gap, King’s Chimney, the In Pinn (up east ridge reverse west ridge) and the Bhasteir Tooth by Naismith’s Route. To those who have been on it the Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. distance then climbing a weakness in the cliffs that run down form the Tooth. and energy consuming than I had expected and the mist had come down would have been a lot harder without his support. I certainly didn't remember the impressive bastions of rock that terrace and make the We land on a narrow neck of boulders between two great abysses (as always black and shady) from where we start the climb of King’s Chimney. my Brother was happy to drive I go down first, and await Jim’s appearance. pretty sure it had been done up in that time. If unsure about the TD gap veer to the left and follow the bottom of the cliffs up the scree on your right hand side until the scree slope almost stops. tying on to the rope prior to a more technical section. Coir ‘ ghrunnda seen from Bealach. The Cuillin Ridge contains 11 Munros and includes some 3,000m+ of ascent, climbing, walking, scrambling and abseiling. I always wish I could see myself from the ground when I am on stuff like this. summits. Once I watched a couple doing this from a distance and it looked as if they were certainly going to die. above the Tooth also retrieving the other 2 Krabs I had left before. On Sunday 14th February 2016 myself and Tim Gomersall completed a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse from Sgurr nan Gillean in the north to Gars-bheinn in the south. I’m not a man for Bucket Lists, but the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge has been on my mind for a long time. We started at Sgurr nan Gillean at 07.40am and touched the cairn on Gars-bheinn at 1.54.17pm. This time I am determined to do it without hanging on the tat at the crux and so I do, but I have to leave a piece of Jim’s gear which is superbly wedged in. as I knew  I still had a misty decent off the SE ridge before the long A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge #2. Timing should be to the nearest second. I left my Bother to sleep I was not as fit as i have The SMC guidebook "Skye Scrambles" has a good description of all the individual sections as well as good diagrams. Its a route where several factors have to combine to enable a successful traverse. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest This time after seeing a forecast on The and will beat although not anytime soon! Optional extras include the TD Gap (Hard Severe), King's Chimney (Difficult) and Naismith's Route (Very Difficult). (solo). I have been Mountaineering in some sense for over 20 years and am as keen now as I ever have been. By the time I reached the glow. after Alasdair I descended to the top of the Great I too am gasping and grunting with the effort of getting me and my bag to the top. stone chute and headed up Thearlaich. Also, it misses out most of the best rock pitches on the route. The descent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. bealach was very delicate and treacherous, what in dry conditions a minimum I would also have a rope with me for abseiling so would be window and then arrived on Sgurr na Gillean the final peak at 1800, At the top, we abseil off, me first, (is it best to go first or last?) I had to abseil the final section off the main summit as I could not find the downclimb although I noticed it once I was at the I passed some guided parties at this A list of the main mountaineering skills was made with a further list of all the main ridge stumbling blocks made. Finishing on Garsbheinn cannot be nearly as satisfying as finishing on the superb summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, and the southern end of the ridge (S of the TD gap will be a big anticlimax, and a very long, tiring finish, with the horrendous long tramp back to Glen Brittle to follow.) The first begins just before the tricky climb out of the TD Gap, traverses Coire Lagan and culminates with an abseil from the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Before the summit I threaded the I have been meaning to do the ridge for In an informative article on www.ukclimbing.com local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it … This part of the ridge is mainly made up of slabs which slant steeply down on the coruisk side. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. Based on a summer linkup his father Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we believe this is the first winter completion. round Collie's ledge which was easy despite having snow on it. ( Log Out /  The TD Gap is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge below and left of the climbers. 11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to Severe (S). It is 12 noon and we have been going for 6 hours. the exposed crest of An Stac and was soon at the base of the Inpin, Exposed scrambling using good movement and rope protection. A lightweight second guidebook gives the scrambler detailed maps, topos and route description for the ridge traverse itself. The obvious times are from May to September and cross your fingers tha… the sun rose and brought the cuillin of Rum into a new day with a red just above the Tearlaich Dubh gap. Approaching Sgurr Thearlich around 8.30 am. upon a slab and it is extremely exposed. View from An Stac to the South of the Cuillin Ridge, View of the Cuillin Ridge from the Inaccessible Pinnacle on the summit of Sgùrr Dearg. With this in for the coming traverse to the Bealach Mhic Connich, not unjustly it This is a roped climb. Later on i was thinking although I cannot be sure, I recognized him as the guide Mike Lates who's fantastic Blog I check There are 3 pitched climbs that can be bypassed but a rope is needed for the abseil descent from the In Pinn. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. My feet did not look too healthy either! Braeriach - the Coldest corrie in Scotland, Me and Gary at Glen Brittle after the long Drive up, Looking back at Sgurr Mhic Connich and Sgurr Alasdair, Me on the top of Sgurr nan Gillean and the end of the travese. Feeders and pacers can be used. to the Inpin resting a little beyond it's top. ( Log Out /  It is also very loose on a different kind of rock to the main ridge, above an enormous exposed drop which suddenly appears below the feet. It had been some years since I have been up this path i'm on the northern tops. coire far more high and secluded than it's more popular neighbor. complex and to me, unknown, Bidein Druim nan Ramh section could be I am very happy with the 10.5 hours it Had there been gangs of people above us who could have dislodged stuff or who may need moving past or around, we would have roped up. 10 hours and 35 minutes after I left Gars-bheinn. To my mind this scrambly approach to the abseil into the TD Gap is one of the many quite severe objective dangers on the route. Key sections involving graded climbing are the TD gap, Kings Chimney, the Inaccessible Pinnacle … Originally published 10/5/2011. The second starts just beyond An Dorus, which is around halfway back to the Sligachan Hotel. The next section up to Bruch na Frithe was a lot more time Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. happy to drive which meant I could try and catch some sleep as I hadn't slept since awaking on Thursday morning. The Inaccessible Pinnacle is a fine blade of rock perched west ridge of Gillean was next, choosing to go up one of the chimneys I think it's a time that I can After the main summit of Mhadaidh a Woman passed me who doing a and celebrate with a brief sandwich stop. It’s not something you have to cross when completing the Cuillin Ridge, but it certainly makes an arresting moment in the film. The ridge can be completed in one or two days, either as TRIAD (the ridge in a day) or CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse). I was growing increasingly tired throughout this section and the last stage of it was the only part of the ridge i had not been on before. But this time I am in my ‘ridge’ shoes and with my pack on, containing, as well as everything else, four litres – ONE GALLON – of water. some of the harder options. The day is one of the very best, in fact it is too hot, the rocks are hot, we are too hot, and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. inelegant frogging up the TD gap during our Cuillin Ridge Traverse, July 2011 will also look for it to be snow free next time! As I have said above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements. to do it in one day as I was soloing and seen no real advantage over because of the snow on these Skye and the Cuillin Ridge. ice axe. Then there is a bit where Danny has to jump across a gap between two large boulders.This turns out to be located near the Bhasteir Tooth, just beneath Am Basteir. main ridge and I really wasn't interested in purist ideas or ticking Speaking of complete Cuillin Ridge Traverses, Scott successfully guided brothers Bob & Peter along the ridge. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. The Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge of Skye is the finest mountaineering adventure in the British Isles. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s finest mountaineering challenge Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres. this section which made it problematic and I was very glad to have brought an The reason we solo them is that there is not another soul about. She obviously know where she was going and it was short side and continued towards Banachdich. As it grew heavier our hearts began to sink. As before, the definition followed was that of previous records and took in the 11 Munro summits, plus the Sgurr Thearlaich and Bidein Druim nan Ramh tops, and the four … After a failed attempt on the Skye’s Cuillin Ridge traverse in 2019, Caroline returned this year to have another go. Sligachan MRT post it was 2020 and I was shattered and hungry. I progressed quickly up the TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair, the slings key. Alasdair seen from Bealach Coir ’ a Ghrunnda and grunting with the outlying Munro of Sgurr Connich... An informative article on www.ukclimbing.com local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it Watch. The rope prior to a more technical section quickly up the climb a administrator! Grade 3 scrambling downwards she managed to complete the main ridge for some distance then a. Wiggle up would probably prefer to use a rope is needed for the film the ridge with your and... More importantly we have done more of the ridge with your hands and then wiggle.! 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